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In July 1885, three teenage Hawaiian princes took a break from their boarding school, St.Mathew’s Hall in San Mateo, and came to cool off in Santa Cruz, California.Looking for a way to entice visitors to the area of Redondo Beach, where he had heavily invested in real estate, he hired a young Hawaiian to ride surfboards.George Freeth decided to revive the art of surfing, but had little success with the huge 16-foot hardwood boards that were popular at that time.Recently with the use of V-drive boats, Wakesurfing, in which one surfs on the wake of a boat, has emerged.The Guinness Book of World Records recognized a 78 feet (23.8 m) wave ride by Garrett Mc Namara at Nazaré, Portugal as the largest wave ever surfed.The native peoples of the Pacific, for instance, surfed waves on alaia, paipo, and other such craft, and did so on their belly and knees.
Ideal conditions include a light to moderate "offshore" wind, because it blows into the front of the wave, making it a "barrel" or "tube" wave.
Surfing is a surface water sport in which the wave rider, referred to as a surfer, rides on the forward or deep face of a moving wave, which is usually carrying the surfer towards the shore.
Waves suitable for surfing are primarily found in the ocean, but can also be found in lakes or in rivers in the form of a standing wave or tidal bore.
There, David Kawānanakoa, Edward Keliʻiahonui and Jonah Kūhiō Kalanianaʻole surfed the mouth of the San Lorenzo River on custom-shaped redwood boards, according to surf historians Kim Stoner and Geoff Dunn.
George Freeth (8 November 1883 – 7 April 1919) is often credited as being the "Father of Modern Surfing".